Early Use of Zippers in Fashion

I recently read how designer Louise Barnes Gallagher claimed to be using zippers in her fashions as early as 1922, and that led me to investigate.  You can read my findings, and hopefully add to the conversation at The Vintage Traveler.

The above ad is from 1935.

Harry Angelo, Models of 1923: Renee

Renée is a bit of a mystery. She dropped out of press coverage in 1931, most likely a victim of the Depression. However, she was a young woman then, only 34 years old. I do wonder if she joined another house as premier or directrice?  Balenciaga's premier was Mlle. Renee d'Esling. I wonder.... If anyone knows more about her, please let me know!

Renée

Mlle. Renée,  started as a premier at the House of Mme. Cheruit. Born in 1893, she was only 22 when the New York Times wrote in 1915 : “Mlle. Renee may one day be the Mme. Cheruit of the Place Vendome. She has the same simple taste, just as personal in its own way as the greater and more famous woman. She is 22 years old, and we already owe to her the mode of the open-neck blouse, as well as the lovely flaring lingerie collars and organdie gowns which everybody copied from this house last season”. By 1916, she was referred to as the designer for Cheruit, and in 1917, called “the moving spirit at Cheruit”. She had her own house by 1919 at 50, Avenue de Champs-Elysées and received coverage at least in the US papers on a par with the top houses.  So by the time......

 for the rest of the story, design details and more models, click here

 

Renee, 1923 models nos. 28 and 29

Harry Angelo 1923 Model Gowns Installment #5, Martial et Armand

Here's tree more of the Harry Angelo Models of 1923, with a write up on the house. It was a prominent one in it's day, but like so many others is pretty much forgotten. There are a few photographs of actual garments on line in the Costume Institute/Metropolitan Museum database.

Martial et Armand

Martial et Armand appears to have been founded in 1896 at 13 Rue de la Paix and was described as a lingerie house. They were creating dresses at least by 1902, when their gowns were shown in Les Modes. M. Armand was the head of the house at least through WW I. The year for the move to 10 Place Vendome is given variously as 1902, 1903 or 1907. Often referred to as an important old house even in the 1920s, it was well established in the Teens, and mentioned as one of the top houses. The New York Times coverage starts in 1907 and continues through until 1932, .......

for more: Past Perfect Vintage

"Martial et Armand no 18

A three piece tailleur of Titian colored wool poplin trimmed with flat silk braid and soutache to match. The back of the coat, unlike the front, is cut off in short box effect and discloses an apron sash with ties in a bow. The entire dress is made of cloth and the skirt is finished with a wide apron panel in front. The sleeves of the bodice are short. "

"

Harry Angelo Catalog,March 1923 Installment #2

The House of Agnes is certainly well represented in this catalog. I haven't made a strict count, but I would say they? she? sold Harry Angelo the most models that season. This is a house that was open 1906 -1931 and then until 1963 as Agnes-Drecoll. Not the milliner. That's a different Agnes. Ans here's an interesting note. These are Spring fashions. The catalogue is dated March. Today, fashions are shown almost 7 - 8 months in advance.
Correction: I just found a write up for the house of Agnes in the 9/26/1899 New York Sun. So the 1906 date is wrong.

No. 6 Agnes

"Formal coat and dress costume of white crepe romaine with heavily embroidered pattern in white soutache. The three quarter length coat is made on mandarin lines with a narrow collar of tailed ermine. The bodice of the dress is extensively embroidered and the skirt is made with four embroidered panels posed on a foundation also embroidered. Embroidery pattern No. 106"
for more: http://pastperfectvintage.blogspot.com

November 22nd Fashion Parade *Get the Look: Cher"

Nov 22 Get the Look: Cher
One name, and we all know exactly who she is. Singer-songwriter, actor, director and record producer, Cher has won an Academy Award, a Grammy Award, an Emmy Award, three Golden Globe Awards and a People's Choice Award for her work in music, film and television.

Ever since her singing debut in the mid sixties, Cher has been a fashion icon. With her dark, exotic beauty, she has exhilarated generations with her style. From 60s hippie to the flamboyance for which she is best known, it is hard to pin Cher's look down. Trendsetting? Over the top? How about simply dazzling.

See what Cher-worthy dazzle the members of the VFG have in store.Can't get enough Cher? See her on the big screen in Burlesque, opening this week!


Find a great vintage selection among the VFG member's offerings!

Vintage Vintage 20s Bra Simulated Jewels Saphiret Opera Costume Breastplate from POPPY'S VINTAGE CLOTHING

Vintage 1965 Christian Dior Huge Coque Feather Turban from RUE DE LA PAIX

Vintage Vintage 80s Black Exposay Swimsuit Size 12 from GLAMOURSURF

You can find more fabulous vintage items from more sellers at the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!

*Fresh Vintage* Sept 23 - 29th

Every week, the VFG forums host a new edition of *Fresh Vintage* where Vintage Fashion Guild trade members post a tantalizing selection of their newest listings. It's a great way to get an early look at the best new vintage out there!

Here are a few highlights from this week’s Fresh Vintage thread. Enjoy!

First up, a 1920s beaded belt from Past Perfect Vintage

A blue 50s sweater with beaded peacock feather motif offered by Daisy Fairbanks

And a 50s tulle and taffeta gown from Denisebrain

Please visit this week's thread for more *Fresh Vintage*

Tres Parisien, Part 2

For our second installment of eye candy plates from Tres Parisien, we bring you a charming blue floral dress named 'Pompadour', a white evening dress 'Passe-Partout' and a bright red plaid coat 'Sportive'. My limited research suggests this publication started in 1920s, but these certainly look more 1919 styles, especially 'Passe-Partout'. Am I crazy?

for more:
http://pastperfectvintage.blogspot.com/

Fresh Vintage: A new weekly VFG blog feature!!

Every week, the VFG forums host a new edition of *Fresh Vintage* where Vintage Fashion Guild trade members post a tantalizing selection of their newest listings. It's a great way to get an early look at the best new vintage out there! And beginning this week, we'll be showing blog readers a few highlights from each weekly Fresh Vintage thread. Enjoy!

A 1940s multicolor telephone cord clutch purse from Vivavintage

A 30s coat with wide fur collar from Merchantsofvintage

And a 20s opera costume bra encrusted with faux gemstones from Poppysvintageclothing

Please visit this week's thread for more *Fresh Vintage*

And Now for Something Different

My, I jump around from era to era here at Past Perfect Vintage. Yesterday our topic was 1880s bustle dresses, today it is 1920s wig cloches. Tomorrow??? Could be the 1980s here. Could be 1987 to be specific. It's part of the fun. I really don't have a favorite period in fashion. Just show me something shiny and detailed and I am happy.

1920s Gold Bullion Thread Wig @ Past Perfect Vintage

Here's today's shiny object: a 1920s gold bullion thread wig.................for more: http://pastperfectvintage.blogspot.com

Shoes throughout the Decades

As we know, the fashion world is 'future-focused' but gains a great deal of inspiration from decades gone by. Fashion wear for the feet is no different! I've collected a variety of vintage footwear images ranging from super-elegant to downright outrageous! One thing's for sure - ladies have always enjoyed wearing fabulous shoes!

If you're a footwear fanatic, perhaps you can decipher which decades these shoes originate from? No peeking now! Test yourself on your shoe knowledge and then find the answers below.




1) Suede peep toe with pink and raspberry trim. Jerro, c. 1932
2) Slipper with gold embroidery, Morocco, 1920
3) Suede pump embellished with silk rosettes, Emma Hope, c. 1980's
4) Wingtip with stacked heel, Francisco Pomares, 1941
5) Suede sandal with silver floral applique, Perugia for I. Miller, 1920's
6) Multicolour pump with perforated suede cap toe, Maud Frizon, 1970's
7) Platform high-heeled oxford, Miguel'lo, 1970
8) High-heeled unitone spectator shoe, England, 1905
9) Traditional Spanish shoe, 1890
10) Mustard yellow spike with triangle accent, Roger Vivier for Christian Dior, 1965-1966
11) Multicolour sling-back with gold metallic heel and trim, Manolo Blahnik, 1980's
12) Overscale duotone platform, 1971

written by Louise of Catwalk Creative Vintage

August 24 Fashion Parade *Indian Summer*

Indian Summer Make the most of the late summer and early fall with vintage shades of red, orange, gold and brown--gorgeous this time of year, especially in foliage prints.

70s autumnal hued maxi from TERESA'S TREASURES on eBay

Floral silk print 50s dress by CLAIRE MCCARDELL from DENISE BRAIN VINTAGE

1920s red print crepe dress from PAST PERFECT VINTAGE

You can find more end of summer vintage wear from more sellers at the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!

January 5*Vintage Fashion Parade*Splurge!

Splurge!! One spectacular piece to start your year with a bang. You deserve it!

Stunning 20s dress- all sequins in old gold, hot pink, black, white and mercury silver seed beads. From PAST PERFECT VINTAGE

Spectacular vintage 1960S ballroom dress, this will certainly blow the January blues away! From WONDERFULLY QUIRKY on Ruby Lane

50's Shaheen holomu'u with a fishtail back hem from TERESA'S TREASURES on eBay

Pamper yourself with more splurge-worthy vintage from the sellers on the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!

October 20***VFG Fashion Parade***Denim

Denim - The fabric that rules casual style.

70's tri-color dip-dyed denim ladies' pantsuit from VIVA VINTAGE CLOTHING......

80s Gitano pastel pinstripe denim skirt on Etsy from IKONIC VINTAGE, ....

Cute 70s Mini Jumper Dress on Etsy from VINTAGE BUNGALOW....

Find more vintage denim at the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD weekly Fashion Parade!

August 11***VFG Fashion Parade***Flappers

Authentic 20's or 20's inspired, flapper styles are hot for fall! Beads and fringe - bring 'em on!

From DAMN GOOD VINTAGE, 1920's Silk Velvet dress in great fall colors. ....

Elegant Asian inspired silk dress from PAST PERFECT VINTAGE, ....

From ATTICVILLE, a 1920's Beaded Silk Chiffon made in France with original belt and fan. Worn to the Historical Waverly Mansion in Mississippi around 1926....

Check out more flapper finery on the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD weekly Fashion Parade!

August 4***VFG Fashion Parade***Novelty Prints

Our Novelty Prints parades have been so popular, we're going to do them twice a year. I can't wait to see what shows up this time!

From SHYGARDEN on eBay, adorable high waist 60s shorts with 20s beach scene print ....

Make your own novelty print wearable of vintage fabric from FUZZYLIZZIE, ....

From BONTON on eBay, a fabulous Mucha inspired Art Nouveau print 70s blouse....

Check out more novelty prints on the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD weekly Fashion Parade!

20s Fashions on Film

LEATHERHEADS premiered recently, a film set mostly in the 20s written, directed and starring (is there anything this man can't do?) the dashing GEORGE CLOONEY, and co-starring the ever-charming RENEE ZELLWEGER. A film about the early days of football, media and good old fashioned romance. View a trailer HERE.....meanwhile, check out Renee's nod to early 20s fashions in a fantastic (mayhap?) vintage dress at the premier!

A Floral Adventure in Vintage Fashion!

Highlights from the MACY'S 2008 FLOWER SHOW

....a fantastical retrospective of fashion over the decades translated onto mannequins with just LOADS of fresh flowers! A true treat for the eye, going on now in New York City..

Marie Antoinette....

Flapper chic....

A nod to Dior's New Look.....

Disco diva.....

80's power dressing.......

Another fashion related must-see!

Swim Stars.....Vintage Inspired Suits for Summer

The 20s and 30s are back on the runway and headed to the beach if the pieces recently shown at LA FASHION WEEK, designed by ASHLEY PAIGE, are any indication. Just as in the glamorous deco era, many of her swimsuits may be better suited for beach or poolside lounging than actual swimming, but when you look this fabulous, why get wet?

VFG Fashion Parade: The 1920's

Flappers, Jazz Babies, The Charleston. It's the Roaring 20's on the VFG!

Beaded & Sequined Net Over Dress from FuzzyLizzie

Beautiful Uncut Dropped Waist Pattern from Sew-Retro Vintage Patterns

Ermine Lined Green & Metallic Gold Lamé Opera Cape from Poppy's Vintage Clothing

View more 20's fashions here!