A Main Mainbocher

A Mainbocher is not something you see everyday. And when you've got one, bragging rights are most definitely something you're entitled to.

And pastperfectvintage.com has an exceptional one. A 1955 Mainbocher Striped Gazar Cocktail Dress with Provenance!

What a lovely one shoulder gown with the ivory and periwinkle striped fabric manipulated beautifully for visual interest. The bust is draped and darted, while the full skirt is suspended from a hip yoke and the waist is finished with a narrow attached belt. The construction is phenomenal, as one would expect from this designer. Handset zippers in both dress and silk petticoat, bust pads, boned bodice,and lots of hand sewing.

Provenance: Acquired from the estate auction of Taub Miller of Bloomington, IN. Miller was a Professor at IU, was also a diplomat with the State Department at the Federal level. His family in NY had connections in the Fashion Industry from the 30s to 60s. This dress was part of a 3 pc group, sent home to family, all in the same size and taste. One of the 3 was a Bergdorf Goodman Custom Salon dress labeled 7-15-1955 for Mrs. E.F. Hutton. This was the 3rd Mrs. Hutton, Dorothy Dear Metzger, who married E.F. Hutton, (1875 - 1962) the well known stockbroker. She married him in February1936 in South Carolina at the age of 28. Dorothy Hutton was described as dark haired and slender.

MAINBOCHER

(1891-1976)Main Rousseau Bocher served in WWI as a Sgt. Major. He stayed in Europe after the war, and after a stint at Harper's became the fashion editor for French Vogue. Mainbocher founded his Paris house in 1930, becoming the only American to successfully run a couture house in Paris. He maintained the house until 1940, when he returned to New York. Mainbocher remained on 57th St. until his retirement in 1971. He died in 1976.

His beautifully made clothing with dressmaker details was always impeccable and proper, with a sense of decorum. His major coup was the Duchess of Windsor's wedding dress. He refined the beaded or embroidered cashmere sweater for evening. He liked to use materials in new ways, contrasting the formality of the garment with casual fabrics and occasionally the opposite. Mainbocher also designed uniforms for the WAVES, the Women Marines, and the American Red Cross. He designed costumes for Broadway as well -- including Blithe Spirit, Call Me Madam, and The Sound of Music. Mainbocher never licensed his name or work.

Doyle Auction Highlights

EARLY CHANEL EVENING DRESS SELLS FOR $42,000 AT DOYLE NEW YORK ON APRIL 11, 2006 Auction Showcased a Century of Important Vintage Couture by the World's Great Designers Also Featured Were Luxurious Accessories, Costume Jewelry and Textiles On Tuesday, April 11, 2006, Doyle New York held an auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories representing the vitality of international historical fashion spanning two centuries. Offering an extensive selection of dresses, suits and ensembles, the sale also included important costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, as well as American, European and Asian textiles. Highlighting the sale was a blue silk 1926 ombre fringe dress from Chanel that soared past its pre-sale estimate of $5,000-7,000 to reach $42,000. The dress was similar to an example in the Costume Institute’s tautly edited ‘Chanel’ (p.187). Also inspiring competitive bidding was a 1993 Lacroix Carnivale inspired two-piece gown that sold for $10,800, against a pre-sale estimate of $4,000-6,000. Another noteworthy offering was an elegant Fortuny cinnamon silk Delphos tea gown that sold for $7,800. Of more recent vintage were a 1968 Ossie Clark python coat that sold for $3,600 and a 1992 Chanel Couture olive changeante silk dress that sold for $3,600. Property being offered to benefit the Grenville Baker’s Boys and Girls Club included a Mainbocher shredded point d’esprit cocktail dress that sold for $3,300. Fine accessories included a selection of handbags by Hermes, including a blue roi crocodile Kelly bag that sold for $19,200; a cyclamen ostrich Birkin bag that sold for $16,800; and a tan togo leather Birkin bag that sold also 16,800. Costume jewelry was highlighted by a futuristic 1960s Coppola e Toppo faux rhinestone spray suite comprising a collar and two bracelets that fetched $11,400. Also notable was a 1950s Chanel gilt-metal filigree clasp belt formerly in the collection of Diana Vreeland that achieved $3,600. Textiles included an extravagantly embroidered Chinese altar cloth that sold for $6,000. Among the selection of Louis Vuitton trunks were two handsome wardrobe trunks that sold for $3,900 each. NEXT AUCTION Fall 2006 LOCATION Doyle New York, 175 East 87th Street, New York, NY 10128 CONSIGNMENTS ARE CURRENTLY BEING ACCEPTED To have your couture, costume jewelry, textiles and accessories evaluated for possible consignment in the Couture, Textiles and Accessories auction, please contact: Clair Watson Director, Couture Department Tel: 212-427-4141, ext. 603 Email: couture@DoyleNewYork.com CATALOGUE Printed Catalogue: Subscriptions Department, 212-427-4141, ext. 257, subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com View the online catalogue