The Kelly Bag

This story ran on nwitimes.com on Thursday, August 10, 2006 12:33 AM CDT

Can you tell an Hermes bag from a copy? BY SABRINA TURNER

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the Hermes purse known as the Kelly bag. The Kelly is the most coveted vintage fashion accessory in the world.

Based in Paris, Hermes gained more publicity when Oprah was denied an after-hours visit to the Paris boutique. Hermes has been around since 1837, originally producing high-quality saddlebags and other equestrian gear for the European jet set.

What makes an Hermes bag special?

Supply and demand.

Only a limited number of purses are produced. Each handbag is entirely handmade from start to finish, by one of 150 craftsmen. Purses are produced using only the finest leathers available. Vintage Kelly may be found in buttery smooth leather or crocodile. The Kelly has a flap closure with an engraved polished gold buckle.

Instant social status.

The Kelly bag became popular in 1956, when Princess Grace of Monaco (Grace Kelly), was spotted carrying her Hermes purse. A photograph was published in Life magazine, and the purse became an instant hit. Hermes nicknamed the purse "The Kelly Bag."

Similar styles were produced in the late '50s and '60s. Many of these are quite collectible as well. Resale prices can range from $400 to $1,200.

An authentic Kelly can be easily identified.

1. Examine the stitching, the seam will be tilted, sewn on an angle. If there is a straight seam consider the item a copy.

2. The Hermes company is known to use a series of embossed markings inside the handbags. You won't see a metal nameplate.

3. Turn the purse over, look for four gold feet to protect the bottom from wear.

4. Any hardware will have engraved the Hermes-Paris logo on it.

This classic purse is definitely worth the investment. A vintage Kelly is valued from $5,000 plus.

Good luck. Or as the French say, bonne chance!

The opinions expressed solely are those of the writer. Sabrina Turner is a dealer in vintage items, including clothing and accessories.

Maybe you can't afford the Hermes version of the Kelly Bag, but you can afford the look, like this classic 60's version from VFG member Couture Allure. The style was and is still is very popular. Classic, elegant and functional.

Check out this weeks VFG Picks for more Kelly bags from your favorite sellers!

Doyle Auction Highlights

EARLY CHANEL EVENING DRESS SELLS FOR $42,000 AT DOYLE NEW YORK ON APRIL 11, 2006 Auction Showcased a Century of Important Vintage Couture by the World's Great Designers Also Featured Were Luxurious Accessories, Costume Jewelry and Textiles On Tuesday, April 11, 2006, Doyle New York held an auction of Couture, Textiles and Accessories representing the vitality of international historical fashion spanning two centuries. Offering an extensive selection of dresses, suits and ensembles, the sale also included important costume jewelry, handbags and accessories, as well as American, European and Asian textiles. Highlighting the sale was a blue silk 1926 ombre fringe dress from Chanel that soared past its pre-sale estimate of $5,000-7,000 to reach $42,000. The dress was similar to an example in the Costume Institute’s tautly edited ‘Chanel’ (p.187). Also inspiring competitive bidding was a 1993 Lacroix Carnivale inspired two-piece gown that sold for $10,800, against a pre-sale estimate of $4,000-6,000. Another noteworthy offering was an elegant Fortuny cinnamon silk Delphos tea gown that sold for $7,800. Of more recent vintage were a 1968 Ossie Clark python coat that sold for $3,600 and a 1992 Chanel Couture olive changeante silk dress that sold for $3,600. Property being offered to benefit the Grenville Baker’s Boys and Girls Club included a Mainbocher shredded point d’esprit cocktail dress that sold for $3,300. Fine accessories included a selection of handbags by Hermes, including a blue roi crocodile Kelly bag that sold for $19,200; a cyclamen ostrich Birkin bag that sold for $16,800; and a tan togo leather Birkin bag that sold also 16,800. Costume jewelry was highlighted by a futuristic 1960s Coppola e Toppo faux rhinestone spray suite comprising a collar and two bracelets that fetched $11,400. Also notable was a 1950s Chanel gilt-metal filigree clasp belt formerly in the collection of Diana Vreeland that achieved $3,600. Textiles included an extravagantly embroidered Chinese altar cloth that sold for $6,000. Among the selection of Louis Vuitton trunks were two handsome wardrobe trunks that sold for $3,900 each. NEXT AUCTION Fall 2006 LOCATION Doyle New York, 175 East 87th Street, New York, NY 10128 CONSIGNMENTS ARE CURRENTLY BEING ACCEPTED To have your couture, costume jewelry, textiles and accessories evaluated for possible consignment in the Couture, Textiles and Accessories auction, please contact: Clair Watson Director, Couture Department Tel: 212-427-4141, ext. 603 Email: couture@DoyleNewYork.com CATALOGUE Printed Catalogue: Subscriptions Department, 212-427-4141, ext. 257, subscriptions@DoyleNewYork.com View the online catalogue