Wonderful Wools 101!

After a hiatus, the "Fabric Junkie" is back, tackling a timely subject--wool. As in the past, we're looking at both fiber and weave. Last time we mentioned how one weave (jacquard) can be made in a variety of fibers. This time we'll look at how one fiber can be made in a variety of weaves. Everyone knows wool, right? But do they realize the amazing variety of wools and weaves there are? Like silk, wool is incredibly versatile. It can be woven, knitted, or felted; finely or coarsely woven; made in winter or summer weights; etc. It can be made from the coats of not only sheep and lambs, but goats, camel, alpaca, llama, and more. Tweeds, worsteds, twills and gabardines, bouclés.... No wonder wool is one of my favorite fibers! One would need a book to cover all the wools and they ways they're used, so I'll hit just a few common ones: "Nubby" or rough woolens, typically thought of for outerwear, winter suits, and heavier winter dresses. Two specific weaves that come to mind are tweed and bouclé. A tweed weave is a rough-surfaced wool woven in two or more colors, often in a checked or plaid pattern, but can have a flecked, heathered, or herringbone look. You can usually see the warp and weft yarns pretty clearly in a tweed. The Harris tweeds of Scotland are probably the most well-known ones, but tweeds are produced in other countries as well. Bouclé is a very nubby fabric woven with looped yarns, often found in winter coats and jackets. The loops can be very short or long, so bouclé doesn't always look the same from garment to garment and can be used in formal or casual looks. "Suiting" wools, which are smoother and sometimes not easy to recognize as wool. Probably the most familiar of these are the twills and gabardines--weaves with easily visible diagonal lines and with a tighter, finer finish than the woolens. These are often found in mid-weight mens' and ladies' suits and overcoats, although they can vary from heavy to light. Worsted wool is probably what most people visualize when they think of suits, even if they don't know the term. This weave is created using a tightly twisted yarn with smooth finish. The short, "hairy" fibers are combed out of, so that it loses its woolen look. It may not "look" like wool, but when you feel it, you can usually tell that it is. Then we have tropical wool, which is a worsted, but is very plainly woven, very lightweight, and airy--excellent for suits and dresses worn in the spring and summer or in, aptly, tropical climates. The last wool I'll tackle is knitted wool. While everyone is familiar with loosely woven, bulkier sweater knits, many finer knits are used in apparel. Tops, jackets, skirts, and dresses can be made from these knits. These are usually lighter in weight than a typical sweater knit, more tightly knitted, and with a much smoother finish. They drape nicely and can be lined or unlined, and are found as a single-knit fabric such as jersey, or in double knits. Today, the sellers of Reflections of Vintage present some of our seasonal wool fashions!

From My Vintage Cocktail comes these listings: A Vintage 60s Pinup Sweater, Designer, Wool Knit, OOAK, XS, Sm, Med And this fluffy Vintage 50s 60s Designer Mohair Sweater Cardigan, Sm Med, MINT NOS Deadstock Vintage Baubles Too offers this Vintage 50s 1950s Swing Coat Car Coat Turquoise Boucle Wool Sm Med From Alley Cats Vintage, we have a Vintage Hat Gray Wool Stetson Fedora This adorable Vintage Handbag Purse Black Wool Small And this worsted-wool Vintage Suit 1940s 1950s Glenhaven Blue Tweed Nipped Waist B34 Size Small Military Inspired Catseye Vintage presents this Vintage Cardigan Sweater / Angora Blend / 1960s 60s / Hand Beaded / Glass Beads / Peach / Size L A Vintage 50s Suit / 1950s / Skirt Suit / Fur Collar / Mink / Wool Gabardine / Navy Blue / Youthcraft / Size XS And this sophisticated suit-weight Vintage 60s Dress / Shirtdress / Coat Dress / 1960s / Grey / Gray / I Magnin / Georgette Trilere / Size S / US Shipping Included

New With Tag Items, Perfect Vintage Gifts from VFG Members on RubyLane

The only thing nicer than vintage, is vintage new with tag (NWT) or new old stock (NOS) or just new vintage, with no tags but never worn! We found something for everyone among our VFG sellers on RubyLane, perfect for gift giving or just to enjoy yourself! 1960s NOS Brown, Black & Gray Abstract Floral Knit Dress from Vintage Merchant
Marvelous Marvella Nautical Charm Bracelet from Linn's Collection
Designer Cashmere Sweater from glamourgirlvintage
60s Full Length Black Evening Gown Dress from Poppys Vintage Clothing
NOS Vintage 50s Navy & Royal Blue Rayon Satin Tie from Glad Rags & Curios
Barbizon White Satin Nightgown from Vintage Pretties
1950s Atomic Print Pajamas from alleycatvintage

*Fresh Vintage* Oct 28 - Nov 3: No Tricks, Lots of Treats!

I'm here to give you a little sampler of goodies from the latest edition of Fresh Vintage, where VFG's trade members show a tasty sample of their latest vintage offerings.

First up a fabulous 50s satin western shirt from Bonton

This 40s dress from Gaildavid has a sweet crystal pleated scallop trim on the dropped waist, yoke and neckline

And MissMartys is offering this sassy Cashmere sweater in her etsy shop.

 For more Fresh Vintage, visit this week's thread by clicking the title of this post.

August 30th Fashion Parade *Men's Coats*

Men's Coats

Time to find a new coat? Make it a vintage choice for style and quality.

Find a great vintage selection among the VFG member's offerings!

Vintage 1960s Men's 100% Cashmere Topcoat - Size Medium from CATSEYE VINTAGE

Vintage 1970s Sherlockian Loden Cape Coat 52 NOS from SOUL MAN VINTAGE

Vintage 1970's Western Style Utex Coat from MY VINTAGE COCKTAIL

You can find more fabulous vintage items from more sellers at the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!

See more vintage clothing and accessories at the AUGUST 19th *FRESH VINTAGE* EDITION

February16 VFG Fashion Parade *Wrapped In Furs*

Show off the best furs you have to offer. Real or faux, trim or coat, stole or muff, show off these luxurious beauties.

Serval swing jacket from
DAISYFAIRBANKS

Dramatic 60's faux fur coat
from THE VINTAGE PEDDLER

80s cashmere wool coat mink trim ML new old stock from CHEZMOV on eBay

Find more glamorous (and SO warm!) fur and faux fur from more VFG members on the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!!

December 29***VFG Fashion Parade***Make it a Resolution!

Make it a New Year's resolution to add vintage to your wardrobe in 2009! Classic looks that work just as well today as they did then.

Aqua cashmere cardigan from the 50s goes with skirts or jeans! From
VIVA VINTAGE CLOTHING

Warm weather sundress that Audrey Hepburn would have loved to wear, with lattice weave and ribbon detailing. A flattering design that will never go out of style! From the collection of MAGS RAGS

1960's black lace cocktail dress, still perfect for a night on the town! From PROPER VINTAGE CLOTHING

More never out of style vintage clothing at the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!

The History of Cashmere

Contributed By: FuzzyLizzie
Originally Published: VFG Cashmere History

Until the 1920s, knitted sweaters were utilitarian or athletic items, not fashion statements. This all changed with Patou and Chanel in the 20s, and with Schiaparelli in the 30s. By 1933, Pringle in Scotland was making fashionable sweaters of cashmere, and introduced the twin set shortly thereafter.

It took Hollywood to make the sweater a star. In 1937 Lana Turner appeared in They Won’t Forget wearing a tight sweater. The Sweater Girl was born!

In 1940, American designer Claire Potter included decorated evening sweaters in her collection. A year later, Mainbocher took British-made cashmere cardigans and decorated them for evening wear. Sometimes they were made as part of a dress ensemble, with the lining of the sweater matching the dress. They were decorated with beads, sequins, metal studs and fabric trim. This started a trend for decorated sweaters that continued into the 1960s

The evening sweater was an important part of the 1950s wardrobe. These sweaters were decorated in various ways: sequins, embroidery, appliqué, lace, beads, rhinestones and huge fur collars. A sweater would often exhibit a combination of these decorations. Many were lined in sheer, light-weight silk, sometimes with a layer of lace between the sweater and the silk.

Cashmere also became very popular for day. Many women had a twin set or two. A twin set was a pullover, often sleeveless or with short sleeves, and a matching cardigan. Sometimes the two pieces contrasted with coordinating trim. The sweaters often had jewel necklines to complement the string of pearls that many women wore with them.

From the 1940s and into the 1950s, teenage girls would wear their (or their mothers’) cardigans backward, buttoned up the back. College girls of the period bought twin sets as an important part of their college wardrobes.

Cashmere sweaters were knit not only in lovely solid colors, they were also knit in intarsia designs. Argyles were popular, as were flowers, butterflies and other designs from mature. There were often pretty details such as collars, matching mother-of-pearl buttons and contrasting satin trim.

Most 1950s sweaters had three-quarter, or bracelet, length sleeves. This sleeve length remained popular into the early 60s. Later in the decade, sleeves lengthened to cover the wrist.

Read on about what to look for in vintage cashmere sweaters here.

And to answer the trivia question from our last post...

Who coined the term "Fashion Victim"?

The phrase "Fashion victim" was coined by Oscar de la Renta, according to John Fairchild: "We were sitting at the Caravelle and Oscar looked around and said, 'These people are absolute hell, they look like fashion victims,' and that was the first time anyone had used that expression." - From the book The Fashion Conspiracy written in 1988 by Nicholas Coleridge.