Showing posts with label UK. Show all posts
Showing posts with label UK. Show all posts

Friday, September 17, 2010

September 13th Fashion Parade *Get the Look: Twiggy*


September 13th Fashion Parade *Get the Look: Twiggy*


Supermodel Twiggy was the ultimate young 60s style icon with her androgynous looks, huge eyes (complete with layers of false eyelashes) and thin build. Her short hair and short dresses took the world by storm—Twiggy was one of Swinging London's greatest phenoms.


Find a great vintage selection among the VFG member's offerings!


Vintage 60s Navy Blue and White Polyester Dress from VINTAGE FAN ATTIC


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Vintage 60s Mondrian Geometric Shift Dress - XS or Small from
MISS MARTYS


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Vintage Vintage 60s Lilac Tuxedo Ruffle Micro Mini Dress - XXS or XS from SHYGARDEN

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You can find more fabulous vintage items from more sellers at the VINTAGE FASHION GUILD FASHION PARADE!


See more vintage clothing and accessories at the SEPTEMBER 16TH *FRESH VINTAGE* EDITION

Saturday, April 12, 2008

UK FASHION Exhibitions 2008~ Visit The Bath Museum



THE MUSEUM of COSTUME
Bath, Somerset, England


The Fashion Museum collection was started by Doris Langley Moore, a collector, costume designer and author. She gave her collection to the city of Bath in 1963, and Bath City Council used it to found the Museum of Costume. The collection is now three times its original size and the museum changed its name to the Fashion Museum in 2007.

*****

DRESSES from HISTORY 

from February 2008


Fourteen historic ensembles from the Fashion Museum’s world class collection of original dress are on display in the museum galleries from 16 February 2008.

Specialist textile conservators Julie Travis and Lindsay Shephard have prepared the dresses, which have been carefully selected for display. Different dresses require different conservation treatments. For example, a white muslin dress with pale blue embroidery which dates from 1815, was laid out full length on a washing table and gently cleaned to remove nearly 200 years of dust and grime.

The fashions in the new display date from the Georgian, Regency and Victorian periods. An extra feature of the display is the inclusion of one or two pieces associated with Royalty at the time, for example, the ceremonial ensemble worn by the Duke of St Albans as Hereditary Grand Falconer at the  Coronation of George IV (he was previously the Prince Regent) in 1821. 

*****

17th Century Gloves

22 September 2007 - 31 December 2008

Pair of cream leather man’s ceremonial gloves with 
silk gauntlet cuffs embroidered in silk and gold 
metal thread and seed pearls.
Early 17th century. ©The Gloves' Collections Trust

The Fashion Museum is delighted to announce that some of the oldest, rarest and most precious objects in their care will be shown in a new display at the end of September 2007. 

All of the gloves are on loan to the Fashion Museum from The Gloves' Collections Trust, a special body set up by the Worshipful Company of Glovers of London to care for what is possibly the finest collection of historic gloves in the world.

The display at the Fashion Museum includes twenty pairs of gloves from this outstanding collection, all intricately embroidered in a variety of materials from tiny seed pearls to sparkling metal thread. 

Some of the gloves are patterned, some show figures and animals (such as the mythological motif of the'pelican in her piety'); all are highly decorative, and all have to be seen to be believed.

*****

1977

Until December 31 2008 

Fashion is not just about couture, ready-to-wear and big name designers. It’s also about putting a look together, about style, about making a point, about belonging.

For a museum, it’s difficult to capture this phenomenon because by it is nature it is fleeting; it is here today and gone tomorrow. But one way to capture this is through photography.

Not just photographs taken for glossy fashion magazines but images produced for all sorts of other purposes, to be published in the music press, for example, in skate magazines, and even family snapshots. 

So in the re-vamped Fashion Museum we have set aside an area to display fashion through images. '1977' is the first of these displays. 

Thirty years ago this year, punk and new wave bands played music and wore clothes that expressed their identity and demanded attention. 

The images in this exhibition were taken by young, talented photographers all making their names by capturing the energetic and edgy cultural explosion known as punk. 

Their photographs were printed in the music press of the day -  NME, Melody Maker and Sounds - and helped both to record what was happening musically and to disseminate new ideas about dressing and behaving.

The display features photographs of the following punk and new wave bands:
The Clash, Johnny Rotten, Ari Up, The Jam, Debbie Harry, Johnny Thunders and the Heartbreakers, The Only Ones, Buzzcocks, The Ramones, The Rezillos, X-Ray Spex, Tom Robinson Band, Ian Dury, Hugh Cornwell, Elvis Costello, Gaye Advert, Don Letts, Siouxie and the Banshees, Paul Weller

*****


Thursday, January 03, 2008

Stroud Vintage Fashion, Textile & Accessories Fairs




Press Release: A New Vintage Fashion Fair at the Heart of the Cotswolds

Stroud Vintage Fashion, Textile & Accessories Fairs
in the Subscription Rooms Stroud January 5th 2008
(From the desk of David Ireland Stroud Vintage December 28th 2007)

Stroud Vintage is hosting a series of Vintage Fashion, Textile & Accessories Fairs in the Ballroom of the Subscription Rooms during the whole of 2008. The fairs offer a wonderful selection of affordable quality vintage clothes, textile, jewellery, books, shoes, hats, bags and accessories from the 1800s to the 1980s, with Specialist sellers coming from the UK and Europe. The 2007 fairs were a rousing success, so we’re back for more… (well, the Beatles played here twice!)

The first of the 2008 fairs will be held on Saturday January the 5th. For more information about the fairs – whether browsing or booking a stand - visit www.stroudvintage.com

Opening times from 10am to 4pm.

A visit to Stroud on any of the fair days will offer you the chance to indulge yourself to the hilt; with a treasure trove of wonderful affordable vintage delights for any season. Stroud has a proud textile heritage with more than 100 cloth mills gracing the Five Valleys in its heyday. To this end, Stroud Vintage will be linking with the Stroudwater International Textile Festival during May 2008.

And don’t forget – it doesn’t get greener than Vintage. Vintage is the acceptable face of fashion – where unique pre-owned pieces leave just the lightest of carbon footprints behind.

All the best for 2008, David & Sandra Ireland of Stroud Vintage

Wednesday, October 03, 2007

The Affordable Vintage Fashion Fair

The Affordable Vintage Fashion Fair

Stylus, 7 October 2007 at 12.00pm
£1.50 (includes booking fee of £0.50 per ticket)


Due to popular demand, The Affordable Vintage Fashion Fair is back this autumn with new stalls, new venues and lots and lots of vintage bargains for your buying pleasure. Set to a backdrop of today and yesterdays coolest tunes.

The Affordable Vintage Fashion Fair features retro clothes and accessories with an array of stalls by talented new designers, vintage specialists, bargain sellers, 40’s fanatics, 60s stockists and those shoulder pad emblazoned 80s kids.

This niche vintage fair is rapidly building up a cult following amongst the fashion savvy youth of the North who are sick of paying over the odds for retro/vintage/second hand.

Judy Berger, owner of The Affordable Vintage Fashion Fair states: “Just because we lack the amount of vintage shops as our dear capital doesn’t mean we have to pay inflated prices. And why does the door fee of most vintage fairs have to equal the amount we should be paying for some simple vintage jewelery? No, at The Affordable Vintage Fashion Fair we keep it dead simple; £1.00 on the door, very good vintage, really well priced!”

For further information, see www.whatsmineisyours.com

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Steinberg & Tolkien

A rare vintage: Bon voyage to fashion icon Steinberg & Tolkien
By KAREN KAY

A found farewell to the iconic London fashion emporium which inspired designers from Galliano to Gucci

Over recent weeks, the great and the good of Planet Fashion been coming in their droves to pay their respects to one of the style greats of our time.

The pavements of the nether reaches of London's Kings Road have echoed to the distinct clip-clop of Louboutin-clad feet, and the gentle padding of ballet slippers, as stylists, designers, students and aesthetes have joined the pilgrimage to Steinberg & Tolkien, the tiny, iconic boutique that gave birth to the trend for vintage when it opened its door to an unsuspecting world some 14 years ago.

It seems almost unthinkable that, at that time, it was a rare being who ventured out admitting to wearing 'secondhand' clothes, but as stylish names like Kate Moss, Helena Christensen and Winona Ryder pushed the boundaries of fashion, experimenting with vintage pieces, the quest for unique, antique style gained a momentum no-one believed possible. Suddenly, it was hip to admit your outfit had a bit of history, and Steinberg & Tolkien was at the heart of the vintage movement with its idiosyncratic take on the trend.

In a cruel twist of fate, as fashionistas from across the globe arrive for London Fashion Week to celebrate the creative genius of a city that is blessed with such a strong style heritage, and in a season where retro remains a burgeoning influence, the place where so many have unearthed vintage treasures is about to close for good.

In just a week's time, Steinberg & Tolkien will hang up the 'shut' sign on its small, black shabby-chic door for the last time, the victim of rapacious councils and landlords unapologetically exploiting commercial demand from for prime sites in London's premium shopping streets.

It is perhaps a romantic delusion to wish that this dressing-up box of a shop, which was opened mother and daughter Anne Steinberg Tracy Tolkien, could survive in 21st century Chelsea. To the untrained eye, it was a basement and ground floor crammed from floor to ceiling with clutter: no more than a stuffed second-hand shop. To aesthetes with an appreciation for craftsmanship and design details, it was Style Mecca.

"The staff there were amazingly passionate, with an encyclopeadic knowledge of the stock," says Funmi Odulate, author of 'Shopping for Vintage: the definiteive guide to vintage fashion' (Quadrille).

"Tracy, Anne and Mark were real pioneers: they didn't look at the catwalks and try and source stock to fit with trends, they just went for it with their own unique vision. Somehow, they achieved the impossible: finding vintage pieces that looked contemporary, so you didn't look like you'd walked straight out of a period drama or a 1970s sitcom. That, for me, was their special touch.

"And I'd never go there if I was in a hurry, because you would end up being in there for hours, drooling over some amazing piece from Chanel or Ossie Clark. I'd usually end up with an anonymous 1980s belt that I'd bought for a tenner, but that was equally thrilling in its own way."

So its demise is nothing short of a tragedy for the hoards of style leaders who have rummaged through the cramped rails of this two-floor Aladdin's Cave to find the kind of unique period pieces that would provide the foundation of a new look – either in their own wardrobes or the collections that would be generated as a result of sourcing an amazing sartorial treasure.

Vogue magazine's Fashion Features Director Harriet Quick believes the store has, on some level, been a victim of its own success: "It really spawned a huge interest in vintage that didn't exist before they came into being: and they have perhaps suffered as a result, because eBay and other vintage stores have opened in their wake and made sourcing truly unique clothes much more competitive.

"However, the shop has been hugely important as an influential fashion outlet, selling a really well-chosen selection of stock, from nameless hippy fur waistcoats to exquisite Christian Dior cocktail dresses and the span of prices that represented that.

"I once bought a Loewe handbag in there and a St Laurent blouse, and remember being thrilled with my purchases: once vintage was taboo, now it's all about individuality and an expression of personality.'"

Designer Sara Berman, now co-Creative Director at NPeal cashmere, recalls heading there as an 18 year-old St Martin's fashion student: "I vividly remember buying a beautiful beaded handbag soon after I first started as a fashion student, which was 'investment vintage' rather than the shabbier styles you'd unearth on the Portobello Road.

"I couldn't really afford it, but it was simply not going to get left in the shop. Likewise, a python clutch I bought soon after.

"Steinberg was filled with exquisite treasures that you couldn't help but covet. Little girls who dreamed of being princesses could go in there as grown-ups and treat it as the most fabulous dressing-up box. It wasn't just a shop; it had a rare quality that made going there a whole experience. It'll be desperately missed and, in my eyes, is very much the passing of an era."

"It's so sad that such an institution will no longer be around," agrees fellow designer Ann Louise Roswald.

"I remember going there trying to source some vintage gloves, and I found wonderfully glamorous Fifties satin ones after rummaging in the baskets there. I then got a glove-maker to replicate them in pure white, because they were a bit grubby, but sourcing the authentic style was made easy at Steinberg. I also used to adore the amazing 1920s flapper dresses with their intricate beading, which I'd swoon over."

Berman and Roswald are not alone in their love for the store, with many catwalk legends, including Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, Ralph Lauren, Stella McCartney and John Galliano using it as a resource for design inspiration. In fact, almost every designer showing on the international runways this month has at some stage headed to Steinberg & Tolkien in search of that seed of inspiration to begin a new collection.


Continue reading this article here.

Monday, July 09, 2007

Vintage Weekends VIII

Summer's in full swing and it may be a bit too hot to spend your weekends hunting the local garage sales so why not check out some local museums and current exhibits in the comfort of a climate controlled environment? Some to check out this weekend:
Balenciaga opera coat 1967
Indianapolis, IN All Dressed Up: The Latest Additions - In recent years, IMA has made significant acquisitions of both modern and historic costumes. All Dressed Up feature more than 30 of these recent additions, including extraordinary garments by revered European couturiers such as Chanel, Balenciaga, Givenchy and Lanvin that will be displayed for the first time. American fashion designers--including Indiana's own Norman Norell and Halston--will also be represented. Other objects featured will include three paper dresses representing the "throwaway culture" of the 1960s, and whimsical, surrealistic Bes-Ben hats created by "Chicago's Mad Hatter" Benjamin Green-Field. The highlight of the exhibition is an1880s Imperial Russian court dress, created by Charles Fredrick Worth, which belonged to Maria Maximilianova Romanovska, a great-granddaughter of the French Empress Josephine and granddaughter of the Tsar Nicholas I, of Russia. The sumptuous gown has a silver moiré skirt with a luminous emerald-green silk velvet bodice and a matching 12-foot train embroidered in large-scale floral and foliate motifs with crystal beads, silver sequins, and silver foil and strips. - 4/1/2007 through 12/30/2007

Christian Dior day suit 1947
Also at the Indianapolis Museum of Art: Dior: The King of Couture - Celebrated as the "King of Couture," Christian Dior revolutionized the Paris fashion industry in the period immediately after World War II and became one of the most important designers of the 20th century. This exhibition, which includes more than 20 gowns drawn from IMA's permanent collection and loaned from private collectors, provides insight into a designer who considered couture an art on par with architecture and painting. Dior introduced the tailored glamour of the "New Look"-his wildly popular and decidedly feminine style-in 1947 (the suit shown right was created in that year), and it was an immediate sensation. He became a household name on both sides of the Atlantic, as war-weary women responded to the silhouette, which featured a full bust, narrow waist and ample skirts, made possible with the end of the war and fabric rationing. Dior was prolific from 1947 until his death in 1957. This exhibition, which coincides with the 50th anniversary of his death, demonstrates the painstaking artistry of true couture and the timeless elegance of Christian Dior creations. - 6/10/2007 through 11/30/2007

Lanvin ensemble
Phoenix, AZ Automotivated - French couturiers often worked with carmakers to create matching ensembles for the car owners who sought to create the ultimate luxury style statement. Automotivated profiles examples of work by some of the top couturiers of the 1930s, including Lanvin, Paquin, Vionnet and Schiaparelli, among others. The exquisite color combinations and form fitting lines in these garments show their relationship to streamlined design and modernity as it emerged from the automotive industry. From the brown linen dusters and goggles of the early 1900s to the sleek and glamorous bias cut gowns of the 1930s, this exhibition at the Phoenix Art Museum shows the influence of streamlined automobile design in fashion design. - April 14, 2007 – September 2, 2007
 Kent, OH Charles James - The body of work created by Charles James from 1926 until his death in 1978 has become a touch stone in the history of fashion. Distinctive, colorful and extreme are terms that describe both the clothes and the creator. While much could be said about Charles' personality and lack of business acumen, this exhibition aims to study specific garments from the collection of the Kent State University Museum, The Ohio State University, The Goldstein Museum of Design and Mount Mary College. Aware of his contribution to twentieth century aesthetics, Mr. James encouraged his clients to donate his garments to museums. Early on, he believed in the mission of the design laboratory at the Brooklyn Museum where the first exhibition of his work was presented in 1948. Based in educational institutions, our collections also aim to share with others the works of masters of fashion. A hundred years after his birth, his legacy lives on. - May 31, 2007, to February 17, 2008

Schiaparelli Tear Illusion dress 1938
London, England Surreal Things - While many exhibitions have explored Surrealism as a movement in literature and the fine arts, Surreal Things is the first to examine its impact on architecture, design and the decorative arts. It presents a new approach to the subject, focusing on the creation of surrealist objects, whether unique works of art or examples of modern design. - 29 March – 22 July 2007

Have a great Summer!

Monday, July 02, 2007

Vintage Fashion at Auction

COLLECTING


Vintage Fashion at Auction

By MARGARET STUDER
June 29, 2007

Fashion doesn't have to be new to be fashionable; some of the most up-to-date looks are inspired by the past. "Fashion is a continual reinterpretation," says independent London fashion auctioneer Kerry Taylor, whose sales of vintage attire offer a chance to find unusual clothing you aren't likely to see someone else wearing at a party.

Savvy shoppers aren't the only ones likely to be at coming London sales. Designers often show up looking for new ideas from old sources, says Christie's fashion expert Pat Frost. Collectors, who see fashion items as works of art, frequent the auctions, as do museums looking for items with historical significance.

[1970s Pucci dress (estimate 500-800)]
1970s Pucci dress (estimate £500-£800)

Vintage auctions can also offer good value for money -- as not everyone likes the idea of second-hand clothes. This means haute-couture evening dresses or handmade accessories can be snapped up at prices far below those found in trendy boutiques. For example, in Christie's coming "The Wardrobe Sale" on July 25, estimates begin at £150 (www.christies.com).

Here's what to look for in coming sales:

Designer Greats

The auctions typically feature all the fashion hall-of-famers, including Dior, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Pucci, Courrèges, Yves Saint Laurent, Missoni, Versace, Miyake and Vivienne Westwood.

Among the items at Christie's on July 25 will be a totally up-to-date, perky evening dress with a flower design by Pucci from the 1970s, estimated at £500 to £800; an elegant, iridescent, black silk evening coat by Miyake from the 1980s (£1,000 to £1,500); a seductive, long, red evening skirt with a transparent polo neck top from the 1970s by Courrèges (£800 to £1,500); a fun Missoni suit of gold lurex from 1982 (£500 to £1,000); a Versace two-piece cocktail ensemble with wrap-around skirt from the 1980s (£600 to £1,000); and a black silk crepe evening dress with fluorescent yellow tubular-mesh shoulder straps from the 1980s by Japan's technically versatile designer Yohji Yamamoto (£600 to £1,000).

Kerry Taylor's sale in association with Sotheby's on July 10 will feature dresses by Charles James, an English-born, American designer who is one of the great names of 20th-century fashion, famous for his glamorous evening gowns. A copper taffeta bias-cut gown from the 1940s with plunging neckline is estimated at £2,500 to £3,500 (www.kerrytaylorauctions.com).

Another early 20th-century fashion legend featured in the sale is France's Madeleine Vionnet, whose flowing Grecian-style dresses were favored by film divas Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn and Greta Garbo. A Vionnet cocktail dress from circa 1921 in shimmering silver is estimated at £6,000 to £10,000.

Celebrities

Ms. Taylor's July sale will include a fuchsia pink swathed chiffon sari-style evening gown worn by Princess Diana on her official visit to Thailand in 1988 (£25,000 to £35,000). The costume was designed by French-born, U.K.-based Catherine Walker, founder of the Chelsea Design Company, London, which made most of the princess's evening dresses.

Says Ms. Taylor, "As an auction house, I sell to anyone; but, in my heart, I hope this dress is bought by a museum."

Accessories

At vintage sales, shoes and bags are particularly popular, says Ms. Frost, whose sale results on June 7 were headed by a cherry-red Hermès crocodile bag that fetched £36,000, more than tripling its estimate of £8,000 to £10,000. Ms. Taylor's July sale includes a rare green leather clutch Hermès bag from the 1930s decorated with a horse and jockey, estimated at £3,000 to £5,000.

Just for Men

Specialists agree that finding interesting 20th-century men's fashion at the sales isn't easy. Says Ms. Frost, "Men tend to wear their clothes until they fall apart, so pieces are hard to get in good condition." Still, Christie's has a collection in its sale of colorful Westwood items including men's shirts and accessories. Westwood's famous "destroy" T-shirts from the early 1980s are featured with one declaring "I am an anarchist" estimated at £400 to £600.

Write to Margaret Studer at wsje.weekend@wsj.com

Wednesday, May 02, 2007

A Look at London in the 60's

A fun, fantastic look at London's Kings Road in the 60's. The fashion, the cars, the streets!

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

BIG CHANGES - The Museum of Costume BATH


The Museum of Costume is undergoing and extensive redisplay until Friday 22nd June 2007 to transform it into the FASHION MUSEUM.

The Museum of Costume focuses on fashionable dress for men, women and children from the late 16th century to the present day and has more than 30,000 objects in its collection.

Within the collection there are a number of individual collections of clothes and fashion accessories, such as the Dress of the Year collection and an important loan collection of decorative gloves belonging to the Worshipful Company of Glovers of London.

The Museum has been designated by MLA (the Council for Museums, Libraries and Archives) as an outstanding collection of national pre-eminence.


We display about only part of the collection at a time. The displays are changed regularly. Everything in the collection can be viewed - just contact us to book a study table.

The Museum of Costume was opened in the Bath Assembly Rooms in 1963. It was the creation of Doris Langley Moore, a designer, collector and historian, who gave her famous private collection of costume to the city.

CORSETS UNCOVERED


Understand more closely the life of your great great grandmother at the Museum of Costume’s new display and dressing-up opportunity CORSETS uncovered.

The gallery display includes a representative selection of historic corsets, displayed alongside images of real women in carte de visite photographs from the 19th century. The real experience comes with the replica corsets in the gallery, available for adults and for children to try on. This is the way to explore how corsets work, how they feel to wear and how they alter the way you stand and sit.

A hundred and fifty years ago, almost every woman wore a corset. A corset was an essential part of a woman’s dress, vital for achieving the shape necessary for the fashions of the day. To our eyes today, the corset appears an instrument of torture, a symbol of repression of the body, and about as far away from the modern way of dressing as you can get.

This new hands-on area at the Museum of Costume sets out to bridge the gap between then and now, between what happened in fashion in the past and our up-to-the moment perception of the modes of yesteryear.



The Museum is undergoing an extensive re-display between February and May 2007. Please check here for details of the areas that are open during these dates.

Monday, April 16, 2007

FORTHCOMING UK FASHION EXHIBITIONS

FASHION, JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES NEW YORK FASHION NOW 17 April - 23 September 2007 Free admission, Room 40 Victoria & Albert Museum, London How does a designer go from being a relative unknown to becoming a tastemaker? New York Fashion Now explores the stories of twenty designers who launched their own labels in the five years between 1999 and 2004. Key to the early success of some has been the focused support of the fashion press, retailers and manufacturers, as well as the funded design competitions that help the winners pay their bills. For many of New York's young fashion hopefuls this support has been essential. Young designers shoulder significant economic burdens, along with the expectation to deliver creatively each season. Further, many of the featured design labels were founded around the time of the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001. The designers, along with their staff, factories and retailers, struggled in the resultant economic downturn. Still, the number of designer-led fashion businesses founded in New York City at the turn of the 21st century is remarkable. New York Fashion Now captures this significant moment of design productivity, both within the city's mainstream fashion culture and outside it. The twenty featured start-up stories provide insight into how so many young hopefuls have prevailed at this particular moment. ***** SURREAL & DESIGN SURREAL THINGS 29 March 2007- 22 July 2007 While many exhibitions have explored Surrealism as a movement in literature and the fine arts, Surreal Things will be the first to examine its impact on architecture, design and the decorative arts. It will present a new approach to the subject, focusing on the creation of surrealist objects, whether unique works of art or examples of modern design. From the sensuality of Dali’s Mae West Lips sofa to Schiaparelli’s disturbing Tear dress, Surrealism produced some of the most extraordinary objects ever created. This exhibition will bring together many of these rarely seen works for the very first time. The exhibition will explore how Surrealism evolved from radical avant-garde beginnings to become one of the most influential movements of the century and a common visual language of modernity. It will trace the development of Surrealism from the creation of the first objects in the 1920s to its commercialisation after World War II, as the movement was absorbed into the worlds of fashion, commercial design, graphics and film. ***** The Art of Lee Miller 15 September 2007 - 6 January 2008 Admission charge will apply Lee Miller is one of the most renowned female icons of the 20th century - a unique individual admired as much for her free-spirit, creativity and intelligence as for her classical beauty. This exhibition will cover her extraordinary career as a photographer and is the first complete retrospective of her life and work, exploring her transformation from artist's muse to ground-breaking artist. Miller was born in New York in 1907 and modelled for Vogue before meeting Man Ray in Paris in 1929. She became both his lover and muse, and inspired by his work, started to develop her own images. She became war photographer for London Vogue and was the only woman in combat photojournalism in Europe. After the war she returned to fashion photography and portraiture, photographing key figures of the day including Picasso, Man Ray and Miro. The exhibition will celebrate the centenary of her birth. ***** KYLIE: The Exhibition Kelvingrove Art Galley & Museum, Glasgow 21 September 2007 - Sunday 13 January 2008 Free entry This exhibition will explore Kylie Minogue as a popular icon and international performer. Featuring costumes, accessories, photographs and awards, sound and video, the exhibition will look at Kylie's career and changing image. Kylie – The Exhibition will also give some insight into how a major international tour develops - from initial concept to first live performance. 200 objects including 45 costumes and 60 photographs will be on display, from the overalls Kylie wore as Charlene in Neighbours and the gold lame hotpants she wore in her Spinning Around video in 2000 to costumes from her latest Kylie Showgirl: Homcoming Tour. Hats by Stephen Jones will also be featured. The exhibition is created and designed by the Arts Centre, Melbourne, home to Australia's most significant performing arts collection, including material generously donated by Kylie Minogue. ***** The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 22 September 2007 – 6 January 2008 Admission charge will apply V & A, London This glamorous exhibition will focus on Parisian and British couture between 1947-1957, a decade that Christian Dior described as the ‘Golden Age’ of fashion. Dior’s launch of the ‘New Look’ for his first collection in 1947 shocked and delighted the fashion world, creating a new style that symbolised femininity. The full skirts and hour-glass silhouettes were considered highly decadent, synonymous with luxury, opulence and prosperity, following the austerity of the war years. The Golden Age will display stunning gowns and exquisite tailoring from designers such as Balenciaga, Norman Hartnell, Balmain and Givenchy, as well as Dior. It will explore the creation of couture design from the post war era to the global success of the major fashion brands by the late 1950s, at which point fashion began to change, influenced by the ‘youth-quake’ of the early 60s. The skill and craftsmanship of haute couture will be revealed, showing a glimpse of the lost world of the exclusive design houses, and the inspiration behind some of the most famous styles of all time.

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Shoe Stoppers

We came across a fab article today on Australia's Brisbane Times online that mentions our own VFG member Jonathan Walford of Kickshaw Productions and his fabulous new book 'The Seductive Shoe: Four Centuries of Fashion Footwear'. Lara Zamiatin | April 2, 2007 As the proud owner of more than 300 pairs of shoes, it’s little wonder the Sydney fashion designer Vivian Chan Shaw is nicknamed “Imeldific” after the infamous Filipino footwear-fixated Imelda Marcos. “Some women just have a shoe thing,” says Claudia Chan Shaw of her mother’s obsession. “In the 1970s my mother wore outrageous flares. Beneath the trousers you had to have the mad, gigantic platforms hanging out so they could be seen. One of her platforms had a seven-inch [18cm] heel. I used to think she was much taller, but now I know why.” From next week 38 pairs of shoes from the Vivian Chan Shaw collection – including a pair of 1970s Brazilian platforms with vertiginous heels and a pair of Parisian Charles Jourdan leather shoes with an incredibly distorted metallic wedge heel from 1980 – will be on show at the Queen Victoria Building. The exhibition, Two Centuries of Fabulous Footwear, celebrates antique, vintage and modern shoes with 100- plus pairs from design houses such as Versace, Maud Frizon, Stephane Kelian and Bruno Magli. Also on loan for the exhibition are 57 pairs (dating from 1760) from the Darnell Collection’s 3500 vintage garments and accessories, owned by collector Charlotte Smith. There are contemporary items from QVB retailers and several final-year students at TAFE NSW – Sydney Institute. Shoes that made the grade had to be dramatic, says Claudia Chan Shaw, who is acting as the Australian curator for Fashion Group International, the global organisation presenting the exhibition. “Some of my mother’s plainer shoes, the grey ones and dusty pink shoes, didn’t do it for me,” she says of the pairs that were rejected. “The shoes on display are fine, visually amazing shoes of their era. Shoes from Vivian’s collection were collectables 30 years ago; now they’re museum pieces.” One of the aims of the exhibition is to show that shoes in past times “really mattered”, Shaw says. She talks fondly of a pair of her mother’s bottle green embroidered Christian Dior boots from the 1970s that are included in the exhibition. “In the 1960s and ’70s the shoes were so exciting and individual,” she says. “Not only did you make a statement up top with your outrageous hair and big jewellery, but the shoes made a statement. They were not shy shoes; they were outrageous.” Charlotte Smith’s vast vintage collection comes from her American Quaker godmother, Doris. For the exhibition, Smith has focused on shoes that are typical of their era or whose origins are surprising, such as a pair of intricately embroidered silk shoes from about 1890 that look almost modern. Highlights from the Darnell Collection include black silk ankle boots from about 1790 and a pair of 1920s silver lame flapper shoes that were custom- made for the Chicago socialite Mary Vaughan Williams. There’s also a rare travelling shoebox from the 1930s complete with six unimaginably tiny size 3 shoes. Comfort was another matter. Smith says that before 1822, shoes weren’t made with a right and left foot, and no consideration was given to the shape of feet. Shoes came in two sizes: slim and stout. In 1856, an American, W.S. Thompson, patented a machine that could sew soles to uppers and this led to mass production of any style, shape and size. “From 1880, it was acceptable in society for women to wear shoes which mirrored their natural shoe size and shape,” Smith says. “There were obviously women who continued to wear shoes too small and too tight, but several of my shoes in the exhibition show this larger foot size in the 1890s and so on. “Shoes in the earlier days were really worn as foot corsets, intended to make the foot look delicate and narrow which was a sign of good breeding. Now, with our sporting lives, shoes are made for an active lifestyle.” An admirer of the renowned Parisian shoemaker Maud Frizon, a couture shoemaker in the 1980s, Smith refers to Frizon’s take on footwear as sexy statement dressing. “[Frizon] used to say that certain shoes where a woman’s toe peeped out are the equivalent of a plunging neckline,” she says. Of course, some shoe styles, sexy or not, never go out of vogue. The Sydney shoemaker Jodie Morrison, who makes shoes for film and theatre productions, says the lace-up boot and the court shoe are classic styles. “The court shoe is the little black dress of the shoe world,” Morrison says. “It’s not the comfort or the fit. By tradition, you make them half a size down so they stay on. But they’re simple and they just keep coming round.” Morrison has several of her creations on show, including a pair of thong boots she created for Priscilla, Queen of the Desert (the stage musical) and a pair of shoes that Cate Blanchett wore in the Sydney Theatre Company’s production of Hedda Gabler. Janis Dahto, of the family- run custom-made shoe business Dahto Shoes, cites an elegant stiletto sandal as a style that never falls from grace. Keep them simple, she suggests, with one strap across the toes and a sling-back heel. Toe cleavage does it for Mary-Kyri Pallaris, 27, an Adelaide newcomer who launched her footwear label, Mary-Kyri, last April. “A beautiful pump – no matter what the colour – that’s cut back just enough to show the beginning of the toes is sexy and will always remain in fashion,” she says. Sometimes, though, comfort wins over style and there are some shoes that remain in the spotlight regardless of their aesthetic appeal. A case in point: Birkenstocks.

In the new book, The Seductive Shoe: Four Centuries of Fashion Footwear (Thames & Hudson), the Canadian vintage fashion historian Jonathan Walford talks of the popular German shoes with the orthopedically enhanced contoured foot beds. “Although Birkenstocks are regarded as being plain ugly, they show no sign of falling from favour,” Walford writes. “Sales for the original, contoured foot bed sandals were higher in the 1990s than the 1970s, inspiring trainer and sport-sandal manufacturers to use contoured foot beds.” But they are an exception. As most footwear obsessives will testify, it’s not usually the comfy shoes that garner a cult following. When the supermodel Naomi Campbell took a tumble on a Parisian catwalk in 1993, dolled up in Vivienne Westwood mock-crock platforms 25 centimetres high, the shoes were used for British Safety Council posters, with the message to workers: “For your job wear safety shoes.” Westwood, however, went on to sell 300 pairs of the gravity-defiers. Such stories aren’t confined to international models. Claudia Chan Shaw recalls a show-stopping incident in 1970s Sydney, when her mother, who was running for a train wearing a pair of spongy crepe sole shoes, bounced all the way down the ramp at Ashfield Station and slammed into the indicator board. Alas, Shaw says, this particularly perilous pair is now too well-worn and tired to grace the exhibition. But, she asserts, “the right pair of shoes will always make a statement”.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Battersea's Last Vintage Fair of the Year

Vintage Fashion, Accessories & Textiles Fair

Sunday 3rd December 2006 – 9.30am to 4.30pm

Battersea Arts Centre, Grand Hall, Lavender Hill, London, SW11
ENTRY: Trade Early Entry: 9am - £2.50: Public £4.00/£2.50 for students with ID

The last Vintage Fashion, Accessories & Textiles Fair of the year. It’s Party Time. Where else to get that unique, individual party dress or accessory that will make your outfit complete. Fabulous dresses in chiffons & silks, from 30-60’s, beautiful winter coats and unique presents such as 1950’s sweater guards (stops your sweater slipping from your shoulders and 1950’s glove clips so you don’t lose them. We have some fantastic new stallholders with the most amazing displays to choose from. With over 65 stands you will not be disappointed. Prices from £5-£500.

www.anitasvintagefashionfairs.com

Tuesday, November 14, 2006

UK Vintage Fashion Fairs

It's the seventh birthday of the London Vintage Fashion Fair and the organizers tell me it's known all over the world by fashion designers and collectors. On 19 November 2006 there are over 100 exhibitors from the UK and overseas coming together in west London. They will also be offering a membership scheme to all visitors.

London Vintage Fashion Fair
Venue: Hammersmith Town Hall, King Street, London W6 9JU
Date: Sunday 19 November 2006
Time: 10am-5pm (Early entry: 8am)

For more information: www.pa-antiques.co.uk.

Or if in other parts of the UK, try VFG Member Edwin's:

Cheltenham Vintage Fashion Fair

on Sunday 26th November at the Pittville Pump Rooms, 10 am till 5pm.

There's 35 stalls of vintage treasures to peruse, browse, try on and buy. We've got stacks of accessories and jewellery, menswear, 40s and 50s gear and everything from Victoriana to the 1970s.

There's nothing past 1979, NO repro and NO fur.

Visit his website where you can buy discounted tickets, view a map and see previous Fair videos and photographs.

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

Smart Retro

Smart retro
Anna Edwards
August 14, 2006 12:00am

IT ISN'T a fad. It isn't a craze. And it certainly isn't for the impatient.

Vintage shopping requires determination, a lot of time and plenty of practice.
Box Vintage in West End is a mecca for lovers of the classics.

From the roller-skates and cool '70s vinyl record covers displayed out front, to the striking silk and chiffon pleated blood-red halter dress which was recently hanging in the back room, the shop is full of fashion treasures.

Specialising in garments from the '70s and '80s, owners Nick Goding and Jaimee Shillitoe are always on hand to advise their shoppers.

Goding says the popularity of vintage fashion has grown in past years and he doesn't expect it to fade.

"I think if you look overseas to the UK and Europe you see that vintage shops have been around for at least the last 30 years. It isn't something that is going away," he says.

His advice to the vintage fashion shopper: "Take the time. Most of our customers spend an hour in here each time they come."

If there is a particular item you're after, Goding recommends trying on every one of them in the shop.

If that means trying on 50 pairs of vintage jeans then so be it – you never know which pair will fit.

You need to keep an open mind when indulging in this style of shopping.

Experiment and try things you wouldn't normally wear. And if you find an item which needs some tweaking, take the time and the money to get it altered so it fits you perfectly.

Goding says a recent customer bought an '80s formal dress for $120, she spent $40 getting it altered and the next month the same style was featured on the pages of Vogue for more than $600.

It's wise to mix vintage pieces with modern fashions.

Vintage shops are constantly receiving new stock, so pay regular visits.

Goding and Shillitoe's customers include fashion students, stylists and musicians (Katy Steele from Aussie band Little Birdy has been known to bag a Box Vintage piece or two).

Endos (the Endeavour Foundation's retro shop) in Paddington, Lifeline City, Adornments in Paddington and Vintage Revival Lifeline shop in Annerley are some other exceptional haunts for vintage fashion aficionados.